Extreme Kindness

Erik's Journal

Date: Monday, November 18th 2002.

Geography: Halifax, Nova Scotia. It's a balmy 17c and this has been one of the best days of my life.

Point form day: Up at 7:30 -cleaned up dog poo -drove a friend to school -went for a walk by myself on top of the Citadel -cleaned the rental van -had breakfast and wrap up meeting with Monica and Trevor -returned the surfboards to Dacane surf shop and was invited by Lance to head out surfing for a "classic east coast swell" -went back to the hotel and had a conversation with Dave -cleaned up all my stuff and packed it in the RV -bought lunch at the Pita Pit and headed up the coast with Lance -had great conversation with Lance as we checked a few spots up the coast -ended up surfing a decent, head high, right point break for about 3 hours -headed to Brampton with Nico (a surfer from Dacane) -had dinner at Val's godmother's house (and what a house!) -departed for the ferry to Newfoundland -encountered a blizzard -watched Apollo 13 -arrived at about 2:00am.

Highlight of the day: Surfing with Lance and Nico. Oh man! I needed that. It has been way to long since I have been in really surfable waves. I had so much fun. The sun was shining the waves were shoulder to head high and although I was rusty I put together a few nice lines. Lines long enough so that when I pulled out of the wave my legs were tired. If you haven't felt that before you are missing out on one of life's real pleasures. Go to the ocean and get some lessons. I challenge you.

Most inspiring moment: The wrap up meeting with Monica and Trevor. One of the most positive we have had. Mostly because these last few days have been some of the most positive we have had on the trip.

Shout outs: Lance, thanks for convincing me to come out. I really appreciate it. Keep up the good work with your shop. It's because of you that good things are happening with east coast surfing. Nico, thanks for the ride, nice talking to you. Good luck on your travels. Big thanks to Val's godmother and family. We are still full.

Classic quote: "That was a pretty nice wave." -Just a random guy to me after I finished riding a wave.

My crux: Shoulders, shoulders, and shoulders. I want to paddle 10x faster.

Physically speaking: Good, however my shoulders are beat. The spot we surfed today was 3 hours of paddling. I felt like I was on a treadmill. The current was so strong that you had to remain constantly paddling just to stay in position. 2.5 months out of the water will kill your shoulders.

Mental stimulation: I had a great conversation with Lance about the surf industry.

Big laughs: We had some great laughs at the Val's godmother's house.